Road to the Abbey

Grounded, 43 kms from Santiago. My hard-working size 10s gave it their all but the wear-and-tear proved to be too much. So my Camino will, in the final analysis, include two stages in a vehicle. 

I am disappointed that I didn’t walk through the streets of Santiago and make my way to the Cathedral of St. James. But I am not disappointed in myself. This unexpected finish in no way diminishes my effort nor how incredible the experience has been. 

Very early on the way, a musical theme emerged – a camino playlist if you will -and it became the soundtrack for the walk, flipping back and forth between ditties as called for by the situation. I hadn’t thought of or heard many of these songs in years.

In no particular order, these are the words that sustained me and served as a basis of introspection over the last couple of weeks: 

Boy, you’re gonna carry that weight
Carry that weight a long time
Carry That Weight
The Beatles

I don’t know why, but this song was the proverbial ear worm of the walk. I didn’t get to this age without my share of hurt, rejection, ridicule and tough times, and maybe I was feeling the weight. Regardless, I’m thankful for mindfulness and for having learned how to live more in the now. It lightens the load. 

Oh where have you been, my blue-eyed son?
Oh where have you been, my darling young one?
I’ve stumbled on the side of twelve misty mountains
I’ve walked and I’ve crawled on six crooked highways
It’s A Hard Rain A-Gonna Fall
Bob Dylan

This was literally the backdrop for the 7 km slog in pouring rain on Day 3 going to Balugães. Sometimes life is miserable. But if you wait a few minutes, hours, days, the outlook changes. You cheer up. And your shoes dry. 

Mean Mr. Mustard sleeps in the park
Shaved in the dark trying to save paper
Mean Mr. Mustard
The Beatles

The vast majority of people in this world are kind and will do their utmost to help, particularly if you’re a visitor in their country. By singling out the one person we met who doesn’t fit this description, I realize I’m focusing on the negative. He was just so stereotypical though. Unshaven, in his undershirt, adjusting his man parts. I’m chuckling at the memory, and he will forever be my Mr. Mustard.

It’s too late when we die
To admit we don’t see eye to eye
The Living Years
Mike & the Mechanics

I am different from every single person I have and will ever meet based on where and to whom we were born, upbringing, schooling, physical environment. Overlay that with our unique personalities and life experiences and there is potential for chaos and deep misunderstanding. Yet I am human and have the ability to reason and to seek out common ground. I do not need to fight to the death, horns locked and dying of starvation, not giving an inch. Look to understand, to see more and speak less. 

I can still feel the breeze
That rustles through the trees
And misty memories
Of days gone by
How Can You Mend a Broken Heart
The Bee Gees

Grief from lost love, a parent gone too soon, friendships that fall by the wayside. Memories come and go in waves as the hours pass. Everyone I have ever loved has become a part of me, and I carry them with me. They come out to visit when I am surrounded by the earth’s bounty. 

So goodbye yellow brick road
Where the dogs of society howl
You can’t plant me in your penthouse
Going back to my plough
Goodby Yellow Brick Road
Elton John

If only life were as simple as it is on the Camino. Have your bags in reception by 8:30 am and follow the yellow arrows. No wrestling with decisions. Just pay attention and watch for the signs. Oh yeah, and don’t follow random people whom you meet along the way; they may not be on the same path. (This I know from personal experience.)

And in the end
The love you take
Is equal to the love
You make
The End
The Beatles

Words to live and love by.

Santiago Cathedral

Pontevedra

It is Day 11 and we are taking our second rest day in this magical ancient town. Our hotel is situated on the edge of the historical centre which is predominantly pedestrian-only. It is overcast and threatening rain but I couldn’t be more content. Lingering over morning coffee is a luxury these days when it’s important to get an early start.

This experience has been like a dream. Walking this route, thinking about the millions of feet that have gone before, some in high-tech training shoes, some in tattered leather sandals, some bare, and still others on their knees…it is humbling and puts my privileged life into perspective. It is impossible to describe the beauty. I have tried to let the pictures speak for themselves but they don’t hold a candle to what my eyes have seen.

I’ve been thinking a lot about pain – physical and emotional. There are so many levels, and the brain is often the deciding factor in what I can and cannot abide. It is a lesson that I hope to remember when this journey comes to its inevitable end.

In the meantime, we are going to wash our clothes, pay our usual trip to the pharmacy and try to figure out how to get from Santiago to Bilbao without taking out a major bank loan. Life, as they say, good.

Rest Day

It is Day 5 of our Portuguese Camino Central walk, and we are taking a break, doing some laundry and relaxing a bit before a more strenuous day tomorrow. As much as I’ve enjoyed every step so far, I’m also rejoicing in the luxury of sleeping in until 7:30 and lingering over coffee.

The lower part on the right is ours.

Once again, our accommodation is amazing. A huge apartment with two bedrooms, living room and full kitchen. It is a period house…which period I don’t know.. but it is old and gorgeous. The woman who prepared and served us breakfast this morning has worked here for 26 years. She doesn’t speak English but we have Google translator and with my limited Spanish (which she seems to understand) we get along.

We haven’t been in…but it’s there.

The Walk has been fabulous. Difficult at times when it’s pouring rain and there’s an inch of water in your shoes but mostly beautiful through calm countryside with orchards, vineyards and the occasional flock of sheep. Our first few days we walked in the company of a small group of Americans and two German women, passing each other along the way and meeting up in cafes and our lodgings for the night. Sadly, we will lose them today because of our stop but we will meet new people tomorrow. I heard from an Australian man yesterday that there is a large contingent of Nova Scotians on the path. Perhaps I’ll meet their acquaintance on the next leg.

The main part of the inn where we have breakfast. We have the entire place to ourselves. Our once in a lifetime chance to be upper crust!

Our arrival in Ponte de Lima yesterday coincided with a cultural celebration called Vaca de Cordas. It dates back at least to Roman times, possibly earlier, and features a kind of bull-running in which young men goad a bull restrained by a long rope as it runs through town to the beat of loud drumming. We had stopped for a drink before dinner and had to move because, as the young waitress explained, “the bull was coming”. As we left the restaurant later, thousands of people were in the streets, the crowds running this way and that in order to stay out of the way of the poor animal. We left – quickly – making our way to the new bridge to avoid seeing what was happening. Perhaps some traditions could be replaced with more humane activities…

I can’t say enough about the company that arranged this journey. Our information package was extensive and has answered every possible question, the hotels and recommended restaurants wonderful and our luggage is waiting in our room when we arrive. After four or five or six hours of walking, all of this is incredibly important and so far they have delivered in style!

Cats

No, not the Broadway play. Real live cats…the ones I’m allergic to…everywhere. I thought Lima was bad but it doesn’t hold a candle to Essaouira where they are underfoot at every turn.

I went out to a recommended restaurant to eat a couple of nights ago. A magnificent place, cavern-like with tables tucked away in nooks and crannies and at different levels. There were a couple of tables at the top of a narrow set of stairs next to me. I looked up at one point and a cat was bounding down the stairs. It paused momentarily, looked around the room, then jumped up next to – of course – me. And it was quite insistent about staying there until I explained my position with a series of hand gestures…

Nice surroundings.
Beautiful meal.
What the???

Today at brunch in a small, sunny square, same scenario. Cat jumps up on the seat next to me. I explain in two languages to get the hell away from me. Kindly, of course, but I can’t risk what’s happened to the guy at the next table…

Table for four.

In other medina news, I was propositioned by a shopkeeper today…a guy in a stylish, brocade-covered dress. It always starts off so innocently. In this case, “I like your bracelet” turns into tea in his shop followed by him offering to cook me dinner at his place tonight. This is not someone my age. He has a three-year-old daughter which could make him anywhere between 16 and 55. I’m thinking early 40s. He says I have eyes like a Berber woman…if that means sick and tired of male bullshit, then I’ll take that as a compliment.

Shops.
No shops.

As much as I’ve enjoyed this little break, I’m ready to leave Morocco. Being vegetarian in most countries isn’t an issue but I’ve really struggled here. Not only with meat dominating menus, but with the markets where the sights and smells of slaughtered animals are impossible to avoid. The taste of meat seems to be in everything whether it’s actually present or not. And then there are the cats…

More shops…and cats…
Something interesting at every turn.

Identity crisis

So I arranged with Lahcen the property manager to do laundry this morning, and we were chatting on the rooftop (in French) about stuff. I tried to tell him how important it is to be able to wash clothes when you’re traveling for months on end. And then he asks me if I’m from Spain. 

One of the little relaxation nooks on the rooftop of my apartment.

Now I know my French is rusty, but Spain?’ Then I realize I’ve been saying “si” to him instead of “yes” since my arrival. The results of seven weeks in South America. Roberto, my Spanish teacher, would be proud! In Marrakech, the guy who looked after the pool asked if I was from Norway And here’s me thinking I’m gradually turning a nice shade of dark white. 

Many people hire horse and buggy to get to the daily markets.

I’ve learned three new words in Arabic: thank you, hello/goodbye and please. Smiles are also communication but I have to remember that they can sometimes send the wrong message in this culture. 

A lot of people down on their luck.
Various gates leading to and from the walled part (medina) of town.

This afternoon I stopped for mint tea at a place close to my apartment. The owner sat with me and we talked about the resident cat who was born with a deformity – one back paw that didn’t  develop and just hangs there. He gets around just fine though (the cat) and has lots of kitten left in him, freaking out for no reason and beating up on the carpet. He didn’t charge me for the tea, so of course I returned tonight for dinner. Such a savvy businessman. 

Waiting for the right time to attack.
Nothing wrong with this one’s paws.

Beach Hiatus

First impressions aren’t always correct. When I first laid eyes on my tiny apartment here in Essaouira, my heart sank. It felt dark and dank, not at all what I expected, and I shuddered to think of what the next two weeks would be like. Three days later, I am loving my little pied-à-terre. Sure, it’s a bit noisy given its location in the medina and next to the mosque, but it is otherwise perfect, especially with the rooftop available for reading, sunbathing and playing with the Gigi, the resident cat.

Across the street from my front door.

One of the joys of traveling in warm countries is the abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables. Morocco is no exception. My foray into the market a few days ago was highly successful…peppers, tomatoes, red onion, green beans, cherries, bananas, green grapes, avocados, six eggs and a huge round of warm bread, all for $8. I scurried past the dead fish and live chickens; I swear they were ringing their necks on the spot and I didn’t want that memory seared into my brain…bad enough to see people walking through the crowd with limp birds swinging upside down.

No different than choosing your lobster?

I walked along the magnificent waterfront that lines the town for a few kilometres, starting inside the walls of the medina. The beach itself looks clean, the water calm. I noticed a few folks in it yesterday but certainly not crowds which leads me to believe it may not be all that warm. I’ll go back today for a closer look and the touch test.

Imagine this in Canada!
Camel and horseback riding at the far end of the beach.
Perfect!

A seat at the front of the bus

The driver looks rested and happy. It’s only three hours to Essaouira but I’d like to think he wasn’t out partying last night. I am sitting in the first row across from a French-speaking woman of a similar age, and all the young people are chattering away behind us. A few days away from my 65th birthday, and I’m squarely in the seniors’ section. 

My dessert chariot.

While I have a great view, it’s also nerve-wracking. Lots of kids going home from school, swerving along on foot and bicycles, men on carts and the backs of donkeys in the blazing desert sun. The driver is wearing ear buds and appears to be talking on the phone. 

He talked for the full three hours.
Flat and pretty much straight.
Lots of donkeys and horses.

My thoughts stray to my stay with Hamid, the genteel Moroccan man of French descent who lives life like a country gentleman in the midst of chaotic Marrakech. He seemed set in his ways and routine. Every single item in his home – and there are many – placed with intent and focus and with an expectation that they would remain in place until told otherwise. 

Breakfast each morning the same as the last, with dishes placed exactly as they have been for perhaps countless mornings before. I like his taste in music – classical, well-known French songs from my parents’ generation, the Beatles. He sings too, and while the sound is cheerful, there is just a tinge of loneliness…

About 45 minutes into the bus trip, we come up behind a semi tractor trailer with about 10 young men sitting atop the cargo on its flatbed. A series of hand signals ensues between them and the bus driver. Fifteen minutes later, we pull off to the side of the road and stop. The driver gets out, and the woman across from me explains he’s going to buy pastèques from the flatbed. Happens all the time she says. Another WTF moment until some lengthy googling reveals that pastèques are watermelons.

We took a rest stop here. It’s so hot that they mist the place.

Finally, the coast comes into view, and Essaouira is laid out before me, Although visibility is limited. Look, a beach!

Essaouira in fog.