Road to the Abbey

Grounded, 43 kms from Santiago. My hard-working size 10s gave it their all but the wear-and-tear proved to be too much. So my Camino will, in the final analysis, include two stages in a vehicle. 

I am disappointed that I didn’t walk through the streets of Santiago and make my way to the Cathedral of St. James. But I am not disappointed in myself. This unexpected finish in no way diminishes my effort nor how incredible the experience has been. 

Very early on the way, a musical theme emerged – a camino playlist if you will -and it became the soundtrack for the walk, flipping back and forth between ditties as called for by the situation. I hadn’t thought of or heard many of these songs in years.

In no particular order, these are the words that sustained me and served as a basis of introspection over the last couple of weeks: 

Boy, you’re gonna carry that weight
Carry that weight a long time
Carry That Weight
The Beatles

I don’t know why, but this song was the proverbial ear worm of the walk. I didn’t get to this age without my share of hurt, rejection, ridicule and tough times, and maybe I was feeling the weight. Regardless, I’m thankful for mindfulness and for having learned how to live more in the now. It lightens the load. 

Oh where have you been, my blue-eyed son?
Oh where have you been, my darling young one?
I’ve stumbled on the side of twelve misty mountains
I’ve walked and I’ve crawled on six crooked highways
It’s A Hard Rain A-Gonna Fall
Bob Dylan

This was literally the backdrop for the 7 km slog in pouring rain on Day 3 going to Balugães. Sometimes life is miserable. But if you wait a few minutes, hours, days, the outlook changes. You cheer up. And your shoes dry. 

Mean Mr. Mustard sleeps in the park
Shaved in the dark trying to save paper
Mean Mr. Mustard
The Beatles

The vast majority of people in this world are kind and will do their utmost to help, particularly if you’re a visitor in their country. By singling out the one person we met who doesn’t fit this description, I realize I’m focusing on the negative. He was just so stereotypical though. Unshaven, in his undershirt, adjusting his man parts. I’m chuckling at the memory, and he will forever be my Mr. Mustard.

It’s too late when we die
To admit we don’t see eye to eye
The Living Years
Mike & the Mechanics

I am different from every single person I have and will ever meet based on where and to whom we were born, upbringing, schooling, physical environment. Overlay that with our unique personalities and life experiences and there is potential for chaos and deep misunderstanding. Yet I am human and have the ability to reason and to seek out common ground. I do not need to fight to the death, horns locked and dying of starvation, not giving an inch. Look to understand, to see more and speak less. 

I can still feel the breeze
That rustles through the trees
And misty memories
Of days gone by
How Can You Mend a Broken Heart
The Bee Gees

Grief from lost love, a parent gone too soon, friendships that fall by the wayside. Memories come and go in waves as the hours pass. Everyone I have ever loved has become a part of me, and I carry them with me. They come out to visit when I am surrounded by the earth’s bounty. 

So goodbye yellow brick road
Where the dogs of society howl
You can’t plant me in your penthouse
Going back to my plough
Goodby Yellow Brick Road
Elton John

If only life were as simple as it is on the Camino. Have your bags in reception by 8:30 am and follow the yellow arrows. No wrestling with decisions. Just pay attention and watch for the signs. Oh yeah, and don’t follow random people whom you meet along the way; they may not be on the same path. (This I know from personal experience.)

And in the end
The love you take
Is equal to the love
You make
The End
The Beatles

Words to live and love by.

Santiago Cathedral

Pontevedra

It is Day 11 and we are taking our second rest day in this magical ancient town. Our hotel is situated on the edge of the historical centre which is predominantly pedestrian-only. It is overcast and threatening rain but I couldn’t be more content. Lingering over morning coffee is a luxury these days when it’s important to get an early start.

This experience has been like a dream. Walking this route, thinking about the millions of feet that have gone before, some in high-tech training shoes, some in tattered leather sandals, some bare, and still others on their knees…it is humbling and puts my privileged life into perspective. It is impossible to describe the beauty. I have tried to let the pictures speak for themselves but they don’t hold a candle to what my eyes have seen.

I’ve been thinking a lot about pain – physical and emotional. There are so many levels, and the brain is often the deciding factor in what I can and cannot abide. It is a lesson that I hope to remember when this journey comes to its inevitable end.

In the meantime, we are going to wash our clothes, pay our usual trip to the pharmacy and try to figure out how to get from Santiago to Bilbao without taking out a major bank loan. Life, as they say, good.