Here and there
The shadow is fleeting in the blazing afternoon sun. I look up in time to see the giant kite turn and rush away from the beach where I am standing. I’m momentarily confused until I see him zip past me, flitting across the top of the waves. Then he is airborne, high in the sky as his yellow, blue and black kite dips and soars in response to his command He is a wizard. Small, wiry and looking like he was born with those wings. His passion is palpable. And beautiful.
An early start on our second day of the tour to get the best of the floating market. It was great…chaotic and confusing with so many vessels and folks bartering for the best deal. Huge boats hauling wood and sand and other construction materials gliding by on the outside p, boats laden with pineapples, coconuts, sweet potatoes and other veggies in the centre and tiny long tails zipping in and out selling drinks and fruit to tourists, farmers and wholesalers alike.
I found myself on the side of the boat away from the majority of the action. Since we couldn’t all be on that side (or else we’d experience the Mekong up close and personal), I was content to watch from the frimges. It wasn’t until we’d made our way through the fray to the other side that I realized I hadn’t taken a single shot with my phone for the blog. Apologies, but I was in the moment!
We did see one thing that may have been rare…a near-fight between an older woman and a young man. She was threatening to hit him with a stick, and it was touch-and-go there for a few minutes. No idea what it was about, but since everyone appeared to be paying close attention, I had the sense that it doesn’t happen every day.
Next stop was a rice noodle place…similar to what we saw the day before but with the extra step of sending the big round rice sheets through a slicer. A slick operation which I’ll remember the next time I see the noodles wound together like wool in the packaging.
We then headed to a small village where we rented rickety bicycles for an hour’s ride along the twisting, turning canals. I didn’t realize that many of these were dug out by hand to expand access for those who lived there back in the day. There are now a whopping 27,000 kms of waterways.
I met some wonderful people on this tour – two couples from Sweden traveling together and two Vietnamese couples from Canada who didn’t know each other to begin with. Fascinating to see this country through the eyes of someone returning after a long period of time…
I booked a two-day, one-night tour of the Mekong delta for $55 USD. My expectations are not particularly high, so already, I am pleasantly surprised. The vehicle is big enough for me and 20 friends-to-be, and we all seem fairly mature. There is an empty seat beside me, one of the advantages of singledom. Also one of the disadvantages…
Our tour guide is Philippe. Not his real name of course which sounds something like Purr. I’m playing it safe with the French version. He is funny as hell, but there’s always a slight delay as my brain makes its way through the heavy accent to get to meaning. He was talking a bit about weather earlier so I showed him a pic of the aftermath of one of last year’s snowstorms. He was momentarily speechless. I’m not sure that happens often…BTW, he just noted there are 6 million motorbikes in Saigon. That’s pretty much what I counted yesterday.
We transferred to a boat after a two-hour drive in the area of the Cai Be floating market. We were a bit late for it today but those of us who have two days will see it tomorrow. It’s not as big as it once was. Before cars and bikes and highways, this was the only mode of transport other than bicycles and they too needed to cross the river and canals that snake through the fertile land. The market is still viable of course, just smaller.
We stopped at a coconut candy place where we saw them make rice popcorn (think puffed rice cereal). They also add things like sugar and various spices to make sweets that resemble rice crispie squares. The coconut candy was delicious, and I hear the rice wine had a kick to it. Philippe says it’s good for making babies.
On to a market, then a honey bee farm where you can buy royal jelly which the label claims is a superfood (including a Viagara replacement). No one from our group bought it so we’ll never know…
The highlight was a leisurely paddle on a sampan with a local man at the oars. We saw folks going about their daily business both by boat and by bicycle on the narrow pathways that run along the canals. Next a fruit stand where we ate products grown along the river  -jackfruit, mini bananas, watermelon, water apple and something resembling a lychee nut. And we were entertained by local musicians with regional folk songs.
Finally, lunch and a hammock to lie in. The day trippers left us about mid-afternoon and we are now at the hotel in Can Tho, the largest city in this breadbasket. Population is about 1.5 million, a breeze after Saigon. The tour has been brilliant so far. Perhaps a bit more “shopping” than I’d like but all the stops were informative and no hard pressure tactics. The hotel is heavenly, and the restaurants and night market are around the corner.
I was 21 when the US loaded the last of its people onto helicopters on the roof of its embassy in Saigon and withdrew from this country. Forty years later, it is surreal to be standing on Vietnamese soil, getting the other side of the story. Because there are always two sides, and we got a lot of propaganda and outright lies when we heard the first version.
Spent about six hours wandering the streets of Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1 today. First the War Remnants Museum, then Independence Palace, Notte Dame Cathedral, the charming Post Office Building and finally, massive Ben Thanh Market. Traffic is deadly. The number of motorbikes on the street is mind-boggling, and they have their own rules, often driving on the sidewalk when it’s more convenient than the road. Pedestrians have no choice but to plough into the middle of the onslaught because if you don’t, you don’t get anywhere. I had a few gasps today but nothing that I consider a close call. It all seems to work.
I’m pretty sure I’m in a backpacker slum of sorts. There aren’t many locals and there appears to be a heavy emphasis on beer. No worries though, the hotel is great and there’s a superb Indian restaurant around the corner. I’m outta here in the morning for the Mekong delta.
Our time on Siem Reap was as close to perfection as one can get. It peaked the last night with a Khmer cooking class at Le Tigre de Papier. Our funny, talented hostess Savoenne provided expert guidance through a starter (green papaya salad for me), main (curry tofu) and a common dessert of mango with sticky rice. It started with a trip to the market where she explained some of the finer points of the vast array of unfamiliar fruits and veggies.
We then proceeded to the second-floor kitchen across the alley from the restaurant. It featured an indoor prep area and outdoor stove. We learned how to make pretty veg garnishes, banana leaf plate liners and bowls and got to flex some muscle making paste with a mortar and pestle. No food processors here! Coconut milk, lime leaves and juice, chillies, fresh lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, garlic, shallots…the flavours meld to produce taste that is indescribable!
The only other student in the class was a young American woman who has been living in Rwanda for the past eight years, working in community development. Courtney was a perfect fit, and three hours flew by as we shared stories, cooking disasters and celebrated our Khmer feast.
After a long bus ride to Phnom Penh our energy level was quite low, so we opted to take in a show at the National Museum a block from our hotel. It was fabulous! High energy, vivid colours and beautiful folk songs as a backdrop to dance traditions from all regions of Cambodia. Cambodian Living Arts is an organization founded by one man following the fall of the Khmer Rouge who all but annihilated the arts community during their reign of terror.
I parted ways with Paula early Sunday morning. She planned to spend the day exploring the city before her flight to Seoul. As for me, back on the bus, heading to Ho Chi Minh City!
It’s been a busy few days. Siem Reap is a great town with loads of things to do, great food and people visiting from every corner of the earth. The big attraction is Angkor Wat of course, and our visit coinciding as it did with Chinese New Year…let’s just say that personal space invasion has been a bit rampant. And it was worth it!
Ancient Angkor is a collection of more than one thousand temples spread out over an estimated 1000 square kms. Â Some are nothing more than mounds of repubble of course, but there are at least 50 or so that can be visited. I am no expert on the history of the place, partly because we managed to avoid buying a book until the end of our visit… Don’t ask…
Much of the tour the first day was on foot. We were thankful when the path led us into forests and through the hulking buildings themselves which offer cool respite from the relentless sun. Our tuk-tuk driver was never far away either, although he slept for much of the day. Smart guy.
On day two, Ponlok informed us he had family business to attend to as he introduced us to his replacement. Rocky is a little older and a go-getter. He was reading books on business development as he lounged in the built-in hammock in his tuk-tuk…I have no doubt that this dude will go far; he sold us the Angkor book that one of his clients had given him as a gift, and took us to his place to get it. He lives in one room with three other guys. They park four motorcycles in the room at night, and sometimes have overnight guests. Think about that.
You can’t walk one metre in this town without being asked if you want a tuk-tuk. Or a coconut. Or a pair of alibaba pants. Or dinner. Or a foot massage. We took them up on the latter after our first day in temple land and it was the best $6 I ever spent.
We found a restaurant where we could swim as long as we purchased at least $5 worth of food or drink. Heaven…
S21 was at the centre of a system of prisons across Cambodia used by the Khmer Rouge to inflict horrific torture on innocent citizens from 1975 to 1978. A former high school, it is now a museum in the middle of Phnom Penh, a solemn testament to the country’s past. Tears were never far away as I listened to stories of what happened there; they flowed freely a little later in the day when we visited the infamous killings fields. What one human being can do to another in the name of (fill in blank) is one of life’s mysteries.
The tears had dried by the time Paula and I returned to the city. Paula is my friend who is teaching English in South Korea and who arrived Saturday night. It is wonderful to have a traveling companion. We sat at a rooftop bar overlooking the river as the sun set, eating yummy finger foods and counting our blessings. Later, we made our way to the Night Market where Paula replenished her summer wardrobe; I resisted, having resolved to stop the clothing addiction. It’s amazing how quickly prices fall when the vendors see disinterest!
The six-hour bus ride to Siem Reap was long. But there was a reward at the end, because this town is wonderful…big enough to have lots of interesting things to see and do, small enough to go out without a map, get lost, and find your way back again (tested and found to be true!) We stumbled across something called Pub Street (pun intended) and were caught up in a New Orleans vibe that likely goes on into the wee hours. Not tonight though; our tuk-tuk driver will be here at 5 a.m. for sunrise at Angkor Wat.
I love Phnom Penh! And I didn’t expect to! It is after all a big city. It’s hot and sticky and crowded and noisy and the smells aren’t always pleasant. But the people are. And the streets are numbered grids which means I can wander a long way from home and actually  be able to find my way back. I’m in a great location…a five minute walk from the riverfront shops and restaurants, around the corner from the Royal Palace, a ten-minute walk to the night market. Speaking of markets, I took a short-cut last night and found myself in the middle of one. Live fish, fruit and vegetables of every description, huge chunks of animals (not sure what), and people, lots and lots of people frantically bargaining for their nightly meal or their livelihood, depending which side of the barter they were on.
I had the most delicious meal last night – aloo saag! Yes, it’s Indian and I’m in Cambodia but India does vegetarian a whole lot better, and it had been soooo long… Tonight? Maybe Lebanese! Anything is possible in this amazing city.
Despite the valiant efforts of at least a hundred tuk-tuk drivers, I managed to walk to Wat Phnom this morning. It stands on the only “hill” in the city (it’s really only a bump) and the believers go there to pray for luck. I said a little prayer myself, given that I had to cross the street to get back. In this town, it could be your demise. I’m proud to say that all went well and I’m even getting cocky. Crossed the street at least three times today with impunity!
Sitting in the garden post-breakfast, waiting for my bus to Phnom Penh. A black and yellow butterfly the size of a chickadee has been feeding on the flowers. Alas, no camera close at hand. My fruit salad was sublime…lychee, pineapple, banana, oranges, watermelon and dragonfruit – a new one for me. Â I loved my time in Kep, and I think I’m finally getting into the groove. The exotic city of Phnom Penh awaits.
It rained hard overnight, and the air is glorious this morning…fresh and cool with a slight breeze. I think today will be a beach day provided I can secure a tree under which to sit. It’s my last full day in Kep, and I’ve enjoyed this laid-back little seaside town. For now, I am sitting in the garden, listening to the sounds of the gardener sweeping fallen leaves.
I walked the perimeter of Kep National Park yesterday. It’s a little over 8 km total with most of it under a canopy of tree tops, a welcome reprieve from the relentless sun. The trail begins behind a resort, so I thought I’d take advantage of the market there to pick up snacks. Apparently catering to park-goers is not high on their priority list unless you view Tabasco sauce and rum as hiking provisions…
Armed with a bag of lightly salted chips, I set out. The park is home to many small animals but my only sighting was a smallish lizard that scared the life out of me, waiting in ambush as he was. I did meet a couple of young guys who were staring intently at a rock face, throwing bits of stone at a hole there. They’d seen a huge spider, and somehow thought that throwing rocks at it would entice it to make another appearance. I saw no spiders in the park. Ironically, my sighting was back in my room….an absolutely huge specimen. He met a violent end, thanks to overzealous staff armed with a can of spray. Â I’m still feeling like a murderer;Â this guy had presence!
But back to my hike. The trail goes in a circle through the park and affords great views of the mountains and the sea. Vietnam is visible in the distance, about 20 km further along the coast. I met a group of four from Ukraine who had decided to take in the beauty via tuk-tuk, the sound of their motor the only break in the serenity.
The last 3km or so consist of a road with absolutely no shade. My timing, always perfect, put me there at noon with the sun high in the sky, scorching everything beneath. Thankful for my peasant hat…
I tasted Kep crab last night. It is one of the reasons folks come here, and I broke with my vegetarian regime because it’s been difficult getting sufficient protein (they don’t seem to do tofu). The crab was okay, but not like ours, and way too much work for less than 2 oz. of meat. It’s back to nuts and beans for me.
Ended the day with a walk along the shore and a gorgeous sunset. Ahhhh!
