Oh, Canada

Had my first face plant in asana class this afternoon. I was almost in crow pose, a balancing asana, and I leaned just a tad too far forward. Luckily I landed on my forehead so no apparent damage. It’s early days though, so stay tuned.

Evi and I have boycotted the morning asana class for yoga “vacationers” as the call us. The teacher is a Canadian who, despite being old enough to know better, does not listen to her students. She tried a few times to get me to attempt headstand after I explained that I wasn’t ready for it. A teacher who doesn’t pay attention to that kind of feedback is not someone from whom I can learn.

Morning class teacher from above. Obviously, I am not there.

Having the morning free, we walked into the small village not far from the ashram. It is refreshing to see people going about their daily routines after the tourist mecca that is Goa. People are naturally curious about us and want to talk, to know where we’re from and why we are in this tiny place, but they don’t – as far as we can tell – want to marry us or separate us from our money.

Our afternoon teacher is also a Canadian! Unlike the morning one, Uma is attentive and careful about challenging us but not pushing beyond our limits. She has saved the country’s reputation, and I’m grateful to her😀

Regardless of my efforts to keep things simple, the contents of my backpack have grown to the point of embarrassment. I’m going to take a chance on the Indian postal service and send some things home by mail. This will be our weekend adventure as we try to find a post office and someone to stitch a covering for the box. That’s how things are done here, partly to keep the tailors in business and partly because the cardboard boxes are the pits.

The advanced teacher training course that is currently underway ends on Saturday when the students write their exam. Most if not all of them will be gone on Sunday and we’ll prepare for the influx of fresh faces registered for the course that starts on Feb 18th. That’s the day I leave for Thrissur….more to come on that….

The pond behind the ashram where we sometimes sit for meditation.

Together again

Middle of the supermarket in Cheruvathur. Evi is scooping up cleaning products to ensure that our room remains disinfected to the standard of open heart surgery theatres. [She knows these standards, having had open heart surgery). I grab one of the bottles so I can pay for it, thinking I can at least contribute in that way since she won’t let me clean. Evi grabs the bottle back and we proceed to fight over it. The store clerk watches for a bit, walks away, returns with a second bottle of the same liquid and hands it to me. I fall on the floor laughing…

She thinks we’re the same height.

It is so good to see Evi again. Who else would try to draw a picture of a coil heater to show to everyone in the store in the hopes that they’ll figure out what it is that she seeks so desperately (no hot water here so she’s going to boil her own). Who else looks for a mop on vacation? Only my Evi, and I love her for it.


Last nite was special. In addition to the continuing full moon celebration, there were three people observing birthdays, so they brought in some local musicians and we held the evening meditation and satsang outside at the pond. It was a beautiful clear night, and just after the music started, the huge moon appeared from behind a small hill in the distance and rose to cast light over the ashram grounds. Magic, and it’s only Day One.

In addition to it being the cleanest room in the building, my room here at Sivananda Peetham is perfect. We sleep with the balcony door open at night. I use the mosquito net as a precaution but I don’t think there are any critters around. Im particularly wary of monkeys; those little thieves will make off with everything you own given a chance.

Joy to the World

3 a.m. I need to pee. There’s a frog in the toilet.

It seems that wherever I go in this country, including when I need to go, there is a constant reminder that I am not separate from nature.

On my short walk to the beach, I encounter cows, innumerable grown dogs, puppies, hens with their chicks, cats, kittens and lots of different birds. They share the space with great patience and recognition of the other’s right to existence.

I’ve noticed that none of the cows and dogs are afraid of the tourists, which explains why I can’t for the life of me get the cows out of the yard. Alstid, the owner of La Rocha where I’m staying, says that the animals figured out long ago that the white people will feed and pet them, while the Indians are more aggressive toward their presence.

This morning at the beginning of yoga, I went into a full body stretch only to feel my feet touch something soft and furry…one of the canines that shows up regularly for class. Cats sit with me for my pre yoga coffee, meowing for food, of which I have none but they insist nonetheless.

And the frog in the toilet? There’s no way I’m peeing on a frog, so I had to wait about an hour, bladder bursting, until it made its way to the back of the toilet, from where I shooed it off to a more comfortable distance (after getting a picture of course). From now on, I’m keeping the toilet lid down.

At the end of the day, zen.

A word from our sponsor

I’ve just observed the 8th anniversary of my sobriety. No drink to celebrate (smile), just an acknowledgment of a gift to myself that keeps giving back, each and every day.

I don’t know who or how many knew I had a problem. My ex did, of course. He was there to witness the daily ritual that started with a single glass of wine to relax at the end of the day and ended with a two-bottle-a-day habit that was ruining my life.

I was sick all the time. My work suffered, my relationships suffered, I suffered. I tried cutting back, but it seemed I had only two drinking buttons, On and Off. Choosing Off was not easy. Most of my social interactions involved a certain amount of alcohol, even the healthy ones. Because when the run was over or the race completed, many celebrate with a drink. So for a while, I felt like a freak.

I’m happy to say that the feeling has long ago been put to rest. I am a healthier, happier, kinder and more compassionate human being now that alcohol isn’t screwing up my system. I go to bed at night secure in the knowledge that I will not wake up hungover…again. I don’t have to worry about late-night calls from friends who need help. I can drive anytime, anywhere. I think straight…well, most of the time.

Do I miss it? Sometimes. I used to drink for the feeling but now I miss the cold, crisp sip of white wine, or the refreshing effect of one single beer on a hot summer day. Strangely, I do not miss my drink of choice – red wine- in the least! I hope that’s progress.

I’ve never written about sobriety before, and I’m not sure what makes me do it now. Perhaps an attempt to be real. And now back to our regular program…

Life in Coloumb Bay

There is some sort of festival going on in Chaudi. The streets are lined with stalls selling everything from plastic flowers to watches to shower curtains. And food…lots and lots of food. I bought two pairs of earrings for a total of 60 rupees, or approximately $1.20 CAD. They look an awful lot like the earrings I’ve paid five times that amount for last year, but I’m not going there…

Winter has come to an end here in Goa. My fan is in overdrive in the evenings, and there is not even the slightest whisper of a chill in the morning air as there was at the beginnings of the month . Trees and shrubs are bursting with brilliant blossoms. The bougainvillea outside of the shala has come to life with showy purple and orange. Frangipani trees are dropping their petals like rain, and the hibiscus in all of their perfect glory are emerging from the greenery.

My morning yoga class continues to be the highlight of my day. Nina is trained in the Sivananda tradition, so her asanas and pranayama exercises are all familiar to me. It’s been more or less the same group of students all week which makes it easier for her and brings a comfortable energy to the session. I suspect next week will bring changes, but for now I am enjoying the familiarity.

Yoga Goan Style

I took my first yoga class at a tiny studio in Eastern Passage. At that time many years ago, the Spoon Studio operated out of a tiny basement room, but it wasn’t long before we were practicing in brand new space on the second floor overlooking the mouth of Halifax Harbour and the ever-changing Atlantic Ocean. It didn’t get much better than that, or so I thought.

This past week, I have been attending morning yoga classes in an open air shala on the shores of the Arabian Sea. Teacher Nina is trained in the Sivananda style which I have practiced for the past several years. We concentrate on breathing and meditative presence as much as on the asanas, and after 90 minutes in the gentle sea breeze, I am relaxed and stretched and optimistic about my day and my life in general.

I learned one new asana this week. I call it freakasana. It is performed when a tiny lizard runs under your neck while you’re lying in savasana. To my knowledge, it is never performed more than once in a lifetime and, if so, is never performed the same way twice. Namaste.

Didn’t get a pic of the baby lizard so you’ll have to settle for the cows that make an appearance at this restaurant every day looking for a handout.

Sunny Days

Reading about winter in Canada makes me a little hesitant to say this, but conditions could not be any more perfect here in Goa. Temps never get much higher than 30 (so far) which is perfect at the beach, and evenings are cool, so cool that I’ve not used the fan once since my arrival, and I usually need a blanket for comfort.

I’ve settled into a comfortable daily routine, beginning with breakfast with my dog. He is only my dog when I have food, otherwise he is off doing dog stuff…chasing cows, harassing cats, fighting, licking himself, etc. We have worked it out so that he now gets one toast and I am left to eat the other one and the eggs guilt-free. He still gives me The Look, but I’m standing firm. We’ve had several conversations about why he can’t have grapes but I just don’t think he gets it.

Waiting for breakfast to be served.
Finally…

I usually take a walk after breakkie to say good morning to the vendors who line the path to the beach. Unlike the women on the beach, the entrepreneurs here are not pushy and will take no for an answer. They just never miss an opportunity to invite you in to “just look, no buy”. I have difficulty with that concept so I try to stay away. And if I do buy something and it is visible to the others, I seem to spend the rest of my day explaining where I got it and what I paid for it. So I’ve started lying…it’s just easier.

There is something about the colours that makes me want to buy one of everything.
The hard sell on the beach.

Afternoons are spent mostly on the beach, in and out of the water. The ocean hasn’t warmed up to the point where it isn’t refreshing yet, probably due to the cool nights. This Canuck is soooo grateful for that. What I am not grateful for…sand flies. I am covered in bites and for the first few days I blamed mosquitoes. Turns out that the north end of the beach has sand flies…

I had dinner a few nights ago at a place down the beach called Cuba. Next door to Cuba there was live entertainment. Well, sort of live…he actually sounded like he was dying a few times. And I must admit I was hoping at one point that one of us would..

Beautiful sunset every single night.

My henna tattoo has darkened from orange to a pretty rust colour, just as she said it would. It is giving me ideas about getting another, permanent one… The trouble is, even when I put years of thinking into the design, I still get it wrong. With a permanent Buddha on my leg, I cannot visit Sri Lanka for fear of being deported for disrespect, something I did not foresee…

After a bit of searching, I have found a yoga class. It is close to my hut, has a morning Hatha class that does not start at the crack of dawn, and the instructor is good. I attended my first class this morning and pulled a muscle in my thigh. It sucks getting older and having a brain that thinks otherwise. This too is impermanent…

A pro showed up to demonstrate downward dog…

Columb Bay

I was going to relate my travel experience on New Year’s Day from Kathmandu to Goa but I have decided it would just prolong the agony. Instead, I’m hoping that the video of the angry mob at the Air Asia gate will give some sense of the mood. The 20:05 flight finally got off the ground at close to 4:00 am the following day after several delays and one outright cancellation which was quickly rescinded.

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i  have never seen such behaviour. Some of the passengers would have spent the night in lockup had that scene played out in Canada.

Silent airport my a**.

But I digress. I am in Goa. My hut, while overpriced, is perfect. I have a comfy king-sized bed, a decent bathroom with instant hot water, and a superb setting in a small bay between Patnem and Palolem beaches. There are dogs that guard the place. I have never seen dogs so good at keeping cows off the property. I have no idea whether they are that enthusiastic about robbers and rapists. But I know we are safe from cows.

 

Mama is behind the green tarp. She sent baby on a recon mission.

And that’s important if you know my track record. Just today, a cow was standing in the doorway of a restaurant as I was trying to leave. Thankfully there was a quick-thinking kid nearby who pointed out that I could exit via the two-foot high walls next to the entrance. Duh…

After calling my bank to get them to implement the instructions I gave before leaving Canada, I was able to access an ATM today and pay the debts I’ve accumulated since arriving in India. Honestly, why is there an online option to say that you’ll be travelling if they don’t read it or take the required action? Thankfully the owner of my beach hut bankrolled my taxi fare and phone recharge…

Alstid says the Christmas decorations will be coming down soon.

Goa. The air is hot, the sand soft under my bare toes, the water surprisingly refreshing, likely due to coolish nights (by Indian standards). One of the shopkeepers recognized me today as I was walking back to the beach after lunch. Exactly how much money did I spend in his shop last year?

 

LSD is not the Answer

My last full day in Nepal. I am ready to be warm again, although I know I will be regretting those words as soon as I hit Goa. I will miss Boudhanath, the deep voice of the oomse (sp?) as he leads the prayers these last few days. The site of the Stupa and those eyes, boring into my soul from every direction.

Meditation room at my guest house.

Words of supreme wisdom from Lama Zopa…when he’s right, he’s right!

I saw a couple yesterday as I was circumambulating with the crowd. I can’t get them out of my mind. They were dressed in rags, and it looked like it had been a long time since either of them had had a shower or bath. Hard to guess their ages but I’d say in their 50s.

The man was small, thin and stooped. And on his back, he carried his companion. She was bird like, and her left foot was in a cast. She was tied to him in a sort of sling, like you might carry a baby. He walked into the circle of the Stupa and bent slowly until he was on the ground, she still on his back. There they sat, hands outstretched, until the Stupa security folks came to move them along. He would then slowly get to his feet, his burden attached, and walk to another spot on the pavement where he repeated this painful process.

I helped them to get up at one point, and gave them some money, but their plight remains with me. I thought of them last night, once the sun went down and the temperature plummeted. Did they have shelter? Did they have warm clothes? Did they manage to collect enough rupees to somehow ease their suffering? I cannot think of them without crying…

As this year draws to a close, I am grateful for the privileged life I have led and continue to lead.

Happy New Year everyone. Love you.

Sunny Days

The drone of prayers continues today, the second day of the 9th annual Nyingma Monlam. I don’t know what this is exactly. I asked Dr. Google and found something that spoke of prayers for world peace, so that’s what I’m going with. I do know that the Stupa is filled to the brim with Tibetans who have come to participate. For the 52nd day in a row, a clear blue sky and warm sunshine.

I believe I have a stalker. He looks to be about 13 years old, is well-dressed and seems intent on getting something from me. The first time I saw him was a few days ago. He appeared on my left – my bad side in terms of hearing – and it was some time before I realized he was speaking to me. He started with the usual get-acquainted questions then moved quickly to invite me to his village. When I declined, he told me his family was hungry and asked for money. As I said, he was well-dressed and looked healthy unlike so many others here. I said no and moved away from him.

Yesterday I saw him again in the crowd. He flashed me a great big gleaming smile and motioned to his friend who looked a bit older but was also well-dressed and healthy. They started toward me in ambush formation so I instituted evasive measures, merging into a crowd of older Tibetan ladies. Can’t wait to see what today brings…

My days in Nepal are numbered. I had dinner last night with a group from Kopan but a lot of them are moving on as well. To Delhi and Bodh Gaya for His Holiness the Dalai Lama’s teachings, to Lumbini, the city in Nepal where the Buddha was born. Me? I’m on retreat at a beach in Goa…