It’s lovely here, early morning in Luang Prabang. The outdoor breakfast area at my guest house is filled with travellers, young and old, all heading in different directions. Many, like me, have extended their stay to savour the spiritual and cultural heart of Laos.
I went to Pak Ou caves by boat yesterday morning. As usual, a bit of an adventure as I figured out how things work, but they do work. I was on one of the small vessels, six passengers seated in tiny wooden kindergarten chairs in a tiny wooden boat. My fellow passengers (and they were all fellows) included two gorgeous guys from possibly Malaysia and three younger dudes from France. One of the Malaysian guys was super attentive during the trip, helping me on and off the boat. I graciously accepted whether I needed it or not because I’m not dead yet.
Our boat seemed to zip along much faster than everyone else’s. As a result we arrived at Whiskey Village and the caves themselves ahead of the masses…not by much but every moment in relative solitude is precious! Whiskey Village (real name Ban Xang Hai) was so dubbed because of the rice whiskey vendor who greets you as you reach the top of the steps from the river pier. He conducts very effective tastings apparently, as most folks leave with at least one if not more of the tiny bottles attractively encased in wicker. I’ve heard that the stuff is deadly but have no personal knowledge.
There are several caves at Pak Ou but the two “Buddha Caves” of Tham Ting and Tham Phoum are the best known. These caves have been used for centuries as a repository for old Buddha images that can no longer be venerated on an altar, either because they are damaged to the point of disfigurement – termite holes, burn marks and broken limbs – or simply because newer images have crowded them out. Images are readily viewed in the first cave, however you must work to see the second which is accessible by a steep 10-minute ascent.
Once there, you need some source of light because most of the images are inside where there is zero light. I found myself alone there, trying to juggle the iPhone flashlight and the camera with hands dripping with perspiration. The result is pics that aren’t great, but great memories!
Out of respect and compassion for everyone who has spent the last few months in the grips of Canadian winter (and I know there are many who enjoy it), I have refrained from talking too much about weather. However, I have reached my limit. 39 degrees yesterday with high humidity in Luang Prabang and temps steadily rising. No water access unless I make the trip to the waterfalls every day, 38 kms away.
By 1 p.m. my body has gone into survival mode, with only those functions necessary for survival in operation. Humour and rational thought do not seem to be part of that equation… So, without going into a lot of detail right now, I’ve decided to pull up stakes and leave Laos earlier than planned. One more Laos destination – Phonsavon and the Plain of Jars – then it’s off to Thailand where pools and beaches await.