I stumble out of bed at 5 am in anticipation of our early morning paddle on Sandoval Lake. It is one of the few places in this area where it’s possible to see giant otters. Jhon our guide says there’s a family of six living here, but I’ve had no luck; when I’m on the lake, they are no-shows.
But the sun is shining, unlike the day of arrival. It was raining steadily by the time we reached Puerto Maldonado, a bustling town of about 70,000 on the edge of the Peruvian jungle. Fitting somehow for the 45-minute boat ride, followed by 3 km forest hike and finally, a paddle across Sandoval Lake in a canoe. By the time we reached the lodge I was soaked to the skin and the rubber boots they provided were covered in mud but no matter; I’m in the Amazon!
In place of giant otters, we are treated to one of the loudest, strangest sounds I’ve ever heard…male howler monkeys announcing their plans for the day to other rivals. At first I thought I was listening to highway noise. Rita from Edmonton thought it might be a generator. When male howlers face off, the loudest guy wins. It’s a sound you cannot ignore…more so apparently if you happen to be another howler monkey.
Other beings are quieter. Different types of herons (one of which catches fish by dropping flies into the water), a huge troop of tiny squirrel monkeys, lots of hoatzin or stinky birds, so called because they are ruminants and digest their food through fermentation. Tiny bats that look like leaves clinging to the lower parts of palm trees, hoping to fool a bug or two. Tanagers, cardinals, flycatchers, huge swarms of wasps and termite nests on every tree. We’ve seen four of the six species of monkeys on the lake. The squirrel monkeys are my favourite I think…so tiny and fast too. The trees shimmer with life as little bodies by the hundreds scurry about in search of food.
After breakfast on the first day, Jhon gave us a Brazil nut demonstration. What’s so special about a Brazil nut that it needs a show? Lots, as it turns out. For one thing, they have three shells. They fall from the tree in a huge pod that contains up to 15 individual nuts. The outer shell isn’t too difficult to get off, but you either have to have a machete or be a rodent called an aguti to pry the middle shell apart. It takes a grown man with a machete about ten minutes to smash through the middle shell. The aguti are more patient, gnawing steadily on the pod with razor-like teeth. One wandered by while Jhon was explaining, its timing so good that I’m not convinced this wasn’t a setup.
Love a man with a machete. 
The prized nuts inside two separate shells. 
Aguti love Brazil nuts!
Ours is the only echo lodge on this lake. There is a local family of five brothers who host day trippers, but the numbers are negligible so as not to have much impact on this special place. There is a small dock where you can swim, but after being up close and personal with black caymans, I won’t be jumping in. There are also eels, sting rays, piranha…several different types… and snakes. Big snakes. One of the guides has deep scars on his shoulder from a run-in with an anaconda twelve years ago. Swimming is not in my immediate future.
And neither, apparently, is an otter sighting. Oh well, maybe next time…
Fantastic. Love and wait for your updates. You look very Happy!
Love following you down Amazon Lane with these fabulous stories! Who knew the Brazil nut was so well protected? Learning a lot about the creatures and landscapes to the south of us. Keep ‘em coming! Roddy and Billy will be heading down here soon to cut down some of our trees towards the rear of our driveway. I may have some thick bush and interesting landscape shots to showcase of my own to unleash!! Lol
Great adventure Susan, stay safe thanks for sharing
You’re an amazing story teller. Thank you for sharing!
What’s a Brazil nut doing in Peru? Haha just kidding . Susan it looks like a amazing place , and of course it it. I’m sure there are no words to describe being there and what you are feeling.