Chachani, Misti, Picchu Picchu

Three massive volcanoes, one of them (Misti) still active. This is my view from Alvaro’s huge apartment in Carmen Alto, the best in Arequipa!

Chachani, more than 6000 metres high, from the garden.

It isn’t often when my accommodation is so beautiful that I hate to leave it. And Arequipa is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Peru. But Alvaro, his dog Rogelio and his enormous, welcoming home are as big an attraction for his fortunate guests as any I’ve seen since my arrival a few days ago.

Every morning he makes a different, delicious breakfast which we eat at the kitchen table, mouths agape at what we are seeing. We are surrounded by terraced farmland, cows and one sad donkey that brays occasionally, no doubt out of loneliness. Next door, people pay for this view. Mine is included.

Arequipa’s history is so varied and different from the rest of the country’s that I won’t even attempt to explain it. It lies between the Andes and the desert coastland, so it’s a lot hotter here than other places I’ve visited. The 4 km walk down to the old part of town is best done early morning; afternoons are to be spent with the dog near the pool!

Arequipa is known as the white city due to the sillar used in much of the architecture.

Inside Santa Catalina Monastery, a cloistered setting for Dominican nuns. This room is where the young women sat to speak with their families through slatted windows.

And yet, the pull of the historic centre is strong. Yesterday, I trundled down to the centre to take a free walking tour of the city. Our host was hilarious and the tour off-beat. I met a young woman from Germany, and when the tour ended we decided to walk to La Capitana, the most famous and authentic picanteria in town. It was worth the effort; a huge plate of typical Peruvian food – and loads of choice for vegetarians! Since we had no idea how to order, the waitress took us right into the kitchen to see the massive vats of food.

After lunch, Stephanie and I walked to the Yanahuara viewpoint. It features the volcanoes of course, but it doesn’t hold a candle to Alvaro’s kitchen.