Day 64

Seat 16D on Laos Airlines 635 to Chiang Mai. I wonder what their safety record is like. My friend Pat checks these things. Me? I prefer to leave it to fate; all of these airlines have to meet certain standards, so it’s pretty much bad luck if you end up on one that goes down…or hits a bird. If there is a bird on the runway this afternoon, it should take cover before it becomes a fried version of its former self.

I finally got out of bed before sunrise this morning to witness the alms-giving procession. Each day at or just before sunup, the monks from Luang Prabang’s temples – and there are many – walk the streets of the town accepting donations of food from the townspeople for their one meal of the day.

In recent years, the presence of disrespectful tourists has changed the ceremony somewhat, and I wasn’t sure I even wanted to see it. Flashes going off in monks’ faces, tourists physically interrupting the procession, not making sure to keep their bodies low to the ground. Some decide they want to participate (mostly for the photo op) and buy food the night before from street vendors. This food is not fresh, has not been prepared by the donor and mostly ends up in the garbage. (I guess if you’re going to have one meal a day, it should be fresh.)

Anyway I woke before my alarm this morning so I got dressed and sat in front of my guest house. Only a few local women on the street waiting. Only two other tourists. We all sat quietly along with a couple of neighbourhood dogs, and it happened…quietly and respectfully. Even the two dogs held off on their fight until the procession had passed. I’m happy I made the effort.

And yes, I have a picture. Taken with no flash and from my seated position on the ground.

Waiting patiently.
Waiting patiently.
So happy I made the effort to see this.
So happy I made the effort to see this.
Just before the fight broke out.
Just before the fight broke out.

I’m going to miss the folks at my guest house, especially Hang at reception. I hugged her when I left and she said she’d miss the sound of my laughter. We laughed a lot together, usually at the nature and number of my questions.

I generally don’t subscribe to the notion of regrets, however I am feeling a twinge of disappointment at not being able to stay here longer. Had I been two months earlier, even one, the temps would have been bearable, and I could have done and seen a lot more. But my timing was definitely off, and there’s nothing that can be done about it so I will be thankful that I’ve experienced what I have.

It’s an hour to Chiang Mai at 18,000 feet. That’s just about the height of Thorong La Pass in Nepal, the highest I’ve ever been (well, except for Kim and Moe’s pre-Eagles party a few years ago). Strange to think I’ve trekked to this height.

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