I am sitting at a cafe in the seaside town of Galaxidi. Evi is at her weekend yoga retreat, and I am on my own. Even the simplest of tasks seems difficult in a different country. For instance, I have yet to figure out coffee. I ordered a double espresso, thinking it would be double the amount. Instead, it is double the strength. I will be good and truly buzzed by the time I consume the ounce of liquid in my cup.
Peloponnese is a part of Greece about which I had heard little before this trip. It has been a wonderful surprise. From Koilada and Evi’s friend’s villa, we took day trips – the first to Nafplio, the former capital of Greece. Nafplio is beautiful….nestled against the sea with a majestic castle overlooking it from above and a second guarding it from the centre of the harbour. Actually, I think the building on the island was a prison but I prefer to think happy thoughts…lalala…instead of about the potential horrors that occurred there.
The tiny island of Spetses was about a 30-minute drive from the villa, followed by a 12-minute zip across the water. We took one of the private boats over and the larger passenger ferry back. Spetses seems like a playground for the rich; indeed, much of this area is filled with estates and yachts owned by wealthy folks from Athens who can zip out by boat or BMW for a quick getaway.
We left Koilada Thursday afternoon after one last swim in that incredible pool. Along the way, we visited a national historic site, the name of which I failed to capture, consisting of two small churches hidden away in a grotto accessible by a set of steps hollowed out of rock. It was so peaceful there…we were alone until the sound of an engine broke the silence and a busload of French tourists descended. I helped out with directions until their tour guide showed up. We may never see them again😀
Yesterday morning, we walked for about 10 kms along a narrow gauge railway line that runs through – and I do mean through – the mountains. Countless tunnels and trestle bridges with a river running alongside. This is not an abandoned line; the train runs four times daily and we had no idea of when because Greece doesn’t seem to think this kind of detail is important. Scenes from Stand By Me flitted through my brain until finally, my worst fears were confirmed. A train appeared about 100 metres in front of us. I can’t tell you how thankful I am that this did not happen on a bridge…or in a tunnel…I haven’t run in quite some time and I’d rather not think about what the outcome might have been.
I dropped Evi off at her guest house when we arrived in town and drove down to the port to see if I could find some accommodation. Luckily, I ran into a waiter at one of the restaurants who “knows everyone”. He made several calls before he found a room for me at Koukanas Hotel…clean and central for 25 Euros per night!