I Am the Walrus

Chaurasi Kutiya Ashram, where half a century ago, the West cane to sit at the feet of India’s timeless spiritual wisdom. That’s the wording on the brochure that describes the Rishikesh landmark to which the Beatles came in 1968 to study with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. Here, they composed 48 songs featured on The White Album, Abbey Road and Yellow Submarine.

50 years later, as I follow in their footsteps, the emotion is overpowering. While the grounds remain as be beautiful as ever, the buildings are in an advanced state of decay. The site has been taken over by a group called the Rajaji Tiger Reserve. There are nature trails going off in every direction from the main pathways, and I noticed large mounds of elephant dung here and there as I made my way through the site.

I must admit that the thought of encountering a wild elephant while paying homage to the most beloved band of my youth was disconcerting, but somehow it did not lessen the barrage of feelings that bubbled up…it’s hard to describe where the sadness was coming from…perhaps from John’s death and the knowledge that even someone as gifted as he wasn’t safe from the delusions of others. Perhaps it was the realization of how much time has passed since that time of innocence.

When I wasn’t fighting back tears, I was singing Norwegian Wood and wondering why I’d chosen to walk 13 kms in sandals with no support. I may be older, but apparently wisdom hasn’t kicked in yet