Life in the Neighbourhood

It’s a sunny 13 degrees in Bhagsu, and I am back on my balcony after a trip to Mcleod Ganj and HH the Dalai Lama’s temple complex. I have a bit more energy today, although I didn’t sleep well again last night. I’m having a severe allergic reaction to something, either in the air or in the room, and it doesn’t help that it is never quiet here. Dog fights, drumming, fireworks, crying babies and being unable to breathe can wreak havoc on sleep.

Water tank at Bhagsu temple.
Water tank at Bhagsu temple.

In spite of it all, I am content. Bhagsu is quiet compared to Mcleod Ganj which is overwhelmed by the cars and crowds that flock to be near His Holiness. He isn’t here right now, but that makes little difference. It was surreal to be in that temple today, to read of Tibet’s history and the persecution perpetrated by the Chinese government which continues today.

The women were singing and performing a Tibetan dance when I arrived.
The women were singing and performing a Tibetan dance when I arrived.
This is where prostrations are performed.
This is where prostrations are performed.

There are a lot of Indian families here on holiday…still celebrating Diwali. I ended up in the middle of a group from Mumbai while leaving the temple, and I am now in several of their holiday pictures. Same thing at the waterfall yesterday… I’m going to turn the tables and start asking to have my picture taken with them…so far the only proof that I was here is on everyone else’s cell phone…

Bhagsu waterfall.
Bhagsu waterfall.

I like my ‘hood. The German bakery has become my restaurant of choice, and I’m getting friendly with the family who runs it. This morning, their baby girl – about 18 months old – was in a box when I arrived for breakfast, a great big box in which she was perfectly content. And yesterday when I arrived back at the guest house, their baby boy was in the washer, a convenient place to keep him safe while Mom picked greens in the garden.

I buy my fruit at the stand next to the temple. The young guy who runs it rescued me from the taxi the day I arrived. Mr. Cab Driver assured me he knew where I wanted to go, but of course he didn’t. Fruit Stand guy just grabbed my backpack out of the car and delivered me to the guest house without a word, leaving Taxi Guy blubbering on the road.

The temple is the first thing I see as I emerge from the labrynth of alleys that lead to my guest house.
The temple is the first thing I see as I emerge from the labrynth of alleys that lead to my guest house.

The best coffee by far is in Mcleod Ganj though at the Snow Lion Restaurant. I shared a table with a monk today, and I felt rather guilty about being on my phone until I watched him quietly put his beads in his bag and pull out his phone. There’s no escaping them.

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