Just when I think I’ve got Indian train travel worked out, I get thrown a curve ball. Like food, for instance. The train I took from Mumbai to Goa had full meal service delivered to your seat. Expecting the same on the Goa to Madurai journey, I brought nothing. And they served nothing. One woman across the aisle took pity and gave me biscuits and fruit, and I was eventually able to grab samosas from a station stall, but otherwise was offered only coffee or chai, both of which are so sweet as to be somewhat sickening.
And then there are the lack of aids- visual or otherwise – to help you figure out where your stop is. There are no announcements, and the staff disappears for long periods of time, so you’re pretty much on your own to decipher the signs as you approach the various stations. If you happen to be disembarking in the middle of the night or early morning when it’s still dark , you’re really up the creek.
And that’s exactly what transpired this morning. First of all, I thought my arrival time in Madurai was 12:30 am. When that came and went, I settled on 5:40 am because everyone in Goa kept telling me it was a full day’s journey. But that went by too and here’s me, still on the train. Madurai was an hour or more behind us when a porter asked where I was going. When I told him, he bundled me off at a place called Kovilpatti and told me to get the next express train in the other direction.
To say I was a novelty on that station platform would be an understatement. I don’t think they see a lot of tourists in Kovilpatti. I found my way to the ticket counter and asked about an AC car but he shook his head and told me it was an unreserved train. I’ve always wondered about unreserved trains when you have to run like crazy and walk over people to secure a seat; this was my chance to experience it!
I aligned myself with a group of women and kids and took my cues from them, including elbowing old men out of the way as we all scrambled to get inside. It wasn’t so rough after that. I found a seat with five women and in addition to a fan, the windows opened. Not bad for 25 rupees (50 cents). And everyone around me made sure I got off at Madurai Junction!
My room feels like heaven. The only thing missing is a mound of food which I will go in search of shortly.
I had a flash from the movie Lion— Glad you made it. But it sounds like a “good” experience? Now fill your tummy.
Of course I will not tell your mother you are panhandling and elbowing old men in India.
Ha
Barry